A2 to A Licence — Choosing the Right Next Bike

If you’re on your A2 licence with the A test on the horizon, your bike choice matters more than most riders realise. The right A2 bike teaches you to ride properly within a power band that scales — the wrong one teaches you that 47 bhp is “enough” forever, then frustrates you when you outgrow it twelve months later.

This is the guide to choosing an A2 bike with progression in mind.

What the A2 licence actually permits

A2 is the middle tier of UK motorcycle licensing:

• Age 19+ with two years on A1 OR direct entry via A2 test
• Maximum 35 kW (47 bhp) at the engine
• Power-to-weight maximum 0.2 kW/kg (so a heavy bike can have more nominal power as long as the ratio works)
• Cannot be restricted from a bike making more than 70 kW (i.e. you can’t take a 120 bhp bike and restrict it to 47)

That last point is the one that catches people out. You can’t take a Ducati Monster 821 (110 bhp) and restrict it down — it’s too far above the A2 ceiling. But you CAN take a Yamaha MT-07 (75 bhp), Honda CB650R (94 bhp), or a Kawasaki Ninja 650 (68 bhp) and restrict it to 47 bhp.

The two A2 strategies

Strategy 1: factory A2 bike — buy a bike that’s A2-friendly from the factory. Honda CB500 series (CB500F, CB500X, CBR500R), Yamaha MT-03, Kawasaki Z400, Ninja 400, BMW G310R. These are 35–48 bhp out of the box, sharp throttle response, and they don’t need restriction kits.

Strategy 2: restricted larger bike — buy a bike that’s A2-eligible via restrictor kit. Yamaha MT-07 (restricted), Kawasaki Z650, Suzuki SV650, Honda CB650R, BMW F 750 GS. You ride it restricted for your two years, then have the kit removed and the full-power machine for your A licence.

Strategy 2 is more bike for your money long-term — you don’t have to sell at the end of your A2 — but the upfront cost is higher and insurance is often pricier.

The bikes that hold value as A2 machines

If you’re going to sell at the end of your two years, residuals matter:

• Honda CB500X / CBR500R / CB500F — bulletproof, A2-native, strong second-hand demand. Among the best-holding 500s on the market.
• Yamaha MT-03 / YZF-R3 — well-regarded sportbike/naked twins. Resale is solid because new riders coming up keep wanting them.
• Kawasaki Ninja 400 — the A2 sportbike benchmark for the last 5 years. Used examples sell quickly.
• Suzuki SV650 (restricted) — the classic budget A2 bike. Big used market, easy to maintain.

The bikes that don’t hold value as well:

• 250cc Japanese sportbikes (R25, CBR250R) — outclassed by 400s now.
• Restricted V-twins of 800cc+ (Hyperstrada, V-Strom 800) — strong bikes but restriction puts off used buyers who’d rather wait for derestriction.
• High-mileage A2 commuters (anything past 30K) — fine to ride, hard to sell.

What to look for, A2-specific

The same used-bike checks from any guide apply (service history, chain, tyres, frame, V5, MOT — see our first motorcycle buying guide for the full list). For A2 bikes specifically:

• Restrictor kit paperwork — if the bike is a restricted larger machine, you NEED documentation of the restriction. Some kits clip into the airbox; some are electronic. Insurance companies will void cover if they discover an undocumented restriction was added or removed.
• Power output verification — for insurance and licence compliance, get evidence of the bike’s actual power output. Honda CB500 series has a clear ABM certificate showing 35 kW. Restricted bikes need their kit certificate.
• Chain wear — A2 bikes get ridden harder than 125s. Check chain stretch, sprocket teeth condition.
• Tyre wear pattern — flat in the middle = lots of motorway. Worn outside edges = enthusiastic riding. Neither is bad, both inform what the bike’s been doing.

What to avoid as your A2 bike

A few specific traps in the A2 market:

• Anything 750cc+ that was restricted by a private buyer — unless the restriction is documented through a recognised installer, you may have insurance and licence problems.
• Cat S / Cat N salvage A2 bikes — the resale at the end of A2 is brutally affected. Only worth it if you plan to keep the bike well into your A years.
• Sportbikes you’ll outgrow in 6 months — be honest about what you actually want from a bike. A Ninja 400 is fantastic on a track day but might be uncomfortable for a 90-mile commute.

When to buy your A bike

The traditional advice is “ride your A2 bike until the day you pass your A test”. That’s safe but it costs you money.

The actually-smart approach if you’re 6 months from your A test:

1. Decide your A bike now — research what you want when you’re unrestricted (R7, MT-09, Street Triple, etc.). Track new and used prices.
2. Time your A2 bike sale — sell when residuals are at their peak (spring) so the depreciation curve is in your favour.
3. Take your A test with a hire bike or instructor’s bike — many schools offer training+test on their machine, then you collect your A bike on the same day or the week after.

This is the cleanest move if your A2 bike is one you don’t want to keep, because you avoid the dead period of owning two bikes simultaneously.

Where TH Motors fits

Our A2-eligible bikes cover the factory-A2 strategy — we focus on bikes that are A2 from the factory (CB500X, MT-03, Ninja 400 class). Every bike comes with 6 months warranty, free HPI check, and a fresh service. Call to discuss what you’re trying to progress toward — happy to talk through options.

The honest summary

Your A2 bike should be:

1. A bike you’ll genuinely enjoy for two years (not a “compromise”)
2. Strong on the used market so you can move on without losing your shirt
3. Properly documented for licence and insurance
4. Set up for the kind of riding you actually do

Pick well at A2 and the next two years are fun. Pick badly and you’ll spend the whole time waiting for A.